If someone has an answer to this question please let me know if I have to change other parts as well as the bearings that way I can do it all at once......
Thanks
Scott
there are 3 bearings in the rear wheel assembly and they all should be changed at the same time. The 2 hub bearings are the same and the carrier bearing in the sprocket hub drive is different which I think is the one that you are changing. Make sure the rubber shock absorber that fits around the sprocket hub is in good shape and a snug fit on the hub teeth. A worn axle shaft, combined with a worn shock absorber allows the wheel to be pulled farther towards the front on the driven side, which would show up as a worn tread on that side of the tire. Over tightening the main axle nut is hard on the bearings... a word of advice when it comes to wheel bearings, make sure you get them from a reputable source as a locked up wheel doing 70 causes a little nightmare of a situation on the highway.
Incorrect assembly is the most common cause. Not enough or not the right kind of bearing grease, not changing the races with the bearings, not keeping the bearing matched to its race, not setting the internal spacers correctly - they usually have to be shimmed or at least checked for correct play, not using a torque wrench on the axle, and a few other things.
I would use either the OEM bearing kit or a quality bearing like a Timken. Really bearings are inexpensive for most applications. Paying a few bucks extra for a quality bearing is not a bank breaker. If you have the bearing number, you can go to a bearing supplier and buy the correct bearing.
1- Poor quality of ball bearings. Always buy good quality one. Make sure they are not counterfeit.
2- Dirt getting stuck inside makes them wear faster with friction. Wash them with water to keep them alive.
3- Not oiling enough. Lubrication is necessary.
Are you wearing through tires fast too? Or ever use a pressure washer?
Sometimes. But usually hand wash.
Pressure wash much?
You tighten the chain too much
